Thursday, March 31, 2016
Missing a part for your 10/22?
I'll round out this months 10/22 posts with a listing of the screws and pins used on the 10/22...in the event one of them grows legs and disappears under the work bench.
For reference here is a diagram showing the parts.
The filler plug screws (not shown in drawing) that go in the top of the receiver are #6-48, Ruger sells them for $2 for the set
Missing filler plug screws will probably not prevent you from enjoying a day of plinking with your 10/22, but a missing scope base screw might (part # B-89 in the drawing). These are also #6-48 screw. While Midway USA has them in stock, you may not be able to wait. Your local iron monger may not carry this unique size, but a specialty fastener shop might.
The take down screw (part # B-65) is another important one that would definitely provide difficulty should it become MIA. This screw is a #12-24 x1" long. It had a special cut down shoulder designed to keep it captured in the stock, but since the escutcheon fits the threads I am guessing a standard #12-24 screw would work in a pinch
The V-block barrel screws (part # B-67) are also #12-24 cap screws. These may or may not have a shoulder on them. Most screws provided by the aftermarket houses have the shoulder, but the factory ones did not have the shoulder, so any #12-24 x 1.5" long cap screw will do.
This is the factory replacement from Midway USA
A set of aftermarket cap screws from Rimfire Technologies
The barrel band screw (part # B-69) is unique and I doubt very much you would find one with the correct "filister" head and the piloted end. These are available from Ruger (part number 60042) for just $2.
but if you wanted to find one or modify one, the threads are #8-36 and it is 3/4" long. The shoulder is 5/32" long as is the piloted (non-threaded, smaller) end.
The butt plate screws (part # B-64) on the Ruger 10/22 (also the .44 carbine, model 96/44, Mini-30, Mini-14 etc..) are also a bit unique and possibly hard to source
The screw is a #12 wood screw with a slotted "oval" head (the head is rounded top and bottom). The screw is 1 1/8" long which is not standard. An 1 1/4" long will work, but you may want to drill your holes a bit deeper and use some wax when screwing them in.
Here is another part that when missing can ruin your day...the Trigger Group Retaining pin (part # B-5) is a steel rod 3/16" in diameter (.186"), if you loose one of these you can use a 3/16" drill rod, cut down to 1 1/4" long.
This next one was documented in my earlier post called 10/22 Cheap Tricks:
If you loose your bolt buffer (part #B5) you have several options. If a local gun store cannot supply you with a factory one or an aftermarket polymer one, you can use a 1/4" nylon bolt, make sure to find one that has a shoulder that is 1 1/4" long. Then cut the threaded end and the bolt head, leaving a smooth 1 1/4" long section.
You could also use chain saw fuel line and a 1/8" stainless steel pin (again 1 1/4" long). Make sure to get the fuel line that is 1/4" OD and 1/8" ID. Both should be available at your local hardware store.
One pin that seems to get misplaced is the trigger pivot pin (KE02800 in the drawing below)
This pin is the same one used in The Ruger double action revolvers trigger.
It is 1/8" in diameter and 7/8" long. If a replacement part cannot be found a 1/8" steel rod or drill bit will work.
The roll pin that secures the firing pin in the bolt is another part that will prevent the gun from operating properly (part # B-13 below)
The pin is 5/32" x 5/8" long, if you loose it you can find them at the local hardware store, but you have to buy a 3/4" or 1" and file down to fit, remember to taper the end to make installation easier.