Winchester Model 67 Project Part 2

 In the 1st post we disassembled the gun and began working on the stock.

After attempting to lift the dents, we sanded the entire stock to 100 grit, then 150 grit, then 220 grit, then 280, then 320 and finally 400 grit. After 320 grit, you no longer need the block, just sand by hand, taking your time and only removing enough material to remove the scratches from the previous grit.

Here is the oil we will be using, Minwax Antique Oil Finish. I have used this on a dozens of stocks and have been very pleased with the results. A little goes a long way, I have probably finished 7 or 8 stocks with this can and it is still 1/2 full. It looks like crap on the outside, because it was sitting too close to an acid bath I was using to remove zinc from some screws that I needed to blue.

The first coat is rubbed into the wood by hand. Rubbing with and against the grain and in a circular motion until the oil is tacky. Then the stock is set up to dry for 24 hours. We leave the butt plate on for now; we will remove it when we are done so we can apply oil behind the butt plate and reblue the screws.

24 hours later we apply a second coat, same procedure as the last, then let dry/cure for another 24 hours. The wood will be getting dark now and showing off the beautiful grain.

After the second coat we begin filling the grain, to do this we drop some oil on the stock and sand the stock with 400 grit sand paper, with the grain.

Once you have a slurry of sanding dust and oil, wipe the stock off with a paper shop towel (the kind that doesn't have lint). Wipe it across the grain, forcing the slurry into the wood. I do this once with 400 grit, then after another 24 hrs with 600 grit

Now we start on the metal parts

We start with the barreled action, there was more pitting than I thought, so we start with cloth backed 100 grit sandpaper. I use a block to sand length wise, then switch using a long piece to sand "shoe-shine" style.

After the pitting has been 95-99% removed, we step up to 150 grit, using the same technique.

We keep stepping up in grit, from 150 to 180, then 220, 280, 320, 400 and finally 600 grit. After everything has been sanded to 600 grit, I run over the work with a long piece of crocus cloth, sanding crossways (shoe-shine style) this removes the last bit of sanding marks.

Now the small parts, I polished the screws by wrapping the threads with tape, inserting them into the chuck of my cordless drill and pushed them into sandpaper backed by a piece of soft wood (pine usually).

The other parts were cleaned up on the buffer or wire wheel.

I paid special attention to the metal trigger guard; I like the look of a polished and blued trigger guard.

The next step is cleaning and prep for bluing